Unlike men, for whom women's clothes a priori do not suit (although not everyone agrees with this), men's clothing often suits women. Over the last hundred years, the weaker sex has “appropriated” almost all the elements of a man’s wardrobe. Fashion designers not only do not resist, but also contribute in every possible way to this “robbery”, adapting them to the characteristics of a woman’s figure. One of the compromise options is a straight-cut coat (sometimes slightly fitted), reminiscent of a jacket. It looks stylish and keeps you warm in the off-season.
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Characteristics and advantages of tweed
In essence it is a textured wool, dense and weighty. And also, thanks to the moderate pile, it is tactilely pleasant and warm. Another feature of tweed fabric is twill weave.
Tweed has many excellent qualities:
- resistance to cold, wind, moisture;
- durability, strength;
- wearability (the fabric does not wrinkle);
- tweed is not afraid of snags - they are easily removed with tension;
- The color of tweed clothes practically does not fade.
Classic tweed is a natural, noble fabric with wide functionality.
The nuances of choosing length
This is one of the determining factors in choosing a product. There are several options:
- A short coat-jacket that barely covers the waist looks good on both tall and proportionally built girls of small stature. Ideal for an hourglass figure. Wide hips are not the best companion for this option. Another problem that may arise is the selection of the style of the lower part of the robe. Not every skirt will fit .
- For elongated models reaching to the middle of the thigh, you should take a closer look at models that are short with a small “life preserver” at the waist, but with slender legs. For example, with an “apple” shape.
- Knee-length is the maximum length at which a product can, albeit with some stretch, still claim the title of “jacket.” It allows you to hide the fullness of your hips and highlight your beautiful calves.
- Long models are not very practical, especially for those who walk or take public transport. They undoubtedly look very impressive. First of all, on girls with model height, but they can no longer be called a jacket.
- A sleeveless coat would be more accurately called a coat-vest. It does not warm so well, but, performing more of a decorative function, it successfully participates in the formation of stylish multi-layer sets.
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Varieties of tweed
It is often divided into male and female.
Versions for women are distinguished by a relief texture, fancy twill, bright or pastel colors, and the presence of other fibers - cotton, linen, silk.
Tweed for men is always based on wool (only in budget options it includes a certain percentage of synthetics) or wool cashmere. Its color is most often monochrome: gray, brown, dark green. Tweed fabric is also classified according to the weave of the threads.
Bedford cord is characterized by a pattern that creates the illusion of a wave. Hunting suits were and are still being made from this fabric.
Donegal . Its pattern is made up of small colored nodules merging into ripples. It has a medium density, making it suitable for making suits.
Herringbone - zigzag pattern; Both sports jackets and classic coats are made from herringbone tweed.
Lace tweed . A fabric with a “lace” pattern, which is obtained when yarn and twisted threads are intertwined. Best suited for women's suits and jackets.
Covercoat is a tweed with a small ribbed pattern, light against a contrasting background. It is used for the production of jackets, cardigans and suits.
Shepherd check (Shepsford, hunting check, pepita) - the pattern consists of squares that are crossed by diagonal strokes.
Tartan (Scottish check). Tweed with a pattern of vertical and horizontal colored stripes. A typical “tartan” is characterized by blurred tones, and if the lines are saturated, then this is a Madras check.
Harris is a highly wear-resistant tweed with a rough surface, which is called truly English. It is characterized by a variety of colors, including rich ones.
Cheviot is a coarse fabric obtained from the wool of sheep of the same breed. Suitable for sewing both sports jackets and coats.
What does tweed go with?
It harmonizes with wool, corduroy, denim, flannel, knitwear, and textured silk. It follows that tweed items belong to semi-formal and informal clothing. They go well with brogue boots, Chelsea boots, Derby boots and Chakka boots. But this, of course, is not a dogma.
All types of shoes
Women's tweed jacket
It was given to the ladies by Coco Chanel, known for her passion for adopting and “editing” men’s styles. At the same time, tweed jackets began to be equipped with silk lining and lapels, piping, and “gold” buttons. And by shortening the hem, the fashion designers got a tweed jacket.
What are these items worn with? The answer depends on the type of fabric, cut and color.
English jacket
It has a straight or slightly fitted silhouette and a discreet palette. Pairs with skirts (pencil, wedge), straight or tapered trousers, and strict jeans.
In the style of Chanel
Tweed jacket with a round neck without a collar. Looks exemplary with midi skirts, short trousers, and thick jeans.
Classic jacket
– length to the waist and fastens with one (two) buttons. Pairs with straight and pencil skirts.
With patches
Actually, this is a type of decoration. Tweed jacket with leather or suede elbow pads. It will make a worthy pair with a discreet dress, tight trousers, jeans or breeches with boots.
Spencer
A short, elegant jacket that goes well with tight dresses, skirts and trousers.
Colors and combinations
Brown jackets and jackets are considered the “progenitors” of all “blazer” fashion. Such clothes go perfectly with light blouses and are quite consistent with a business look.
Gray women's jackets are so versatile that they allow you to create a look with things of any color. A delicate shade of blouse or top will make the base color deep and expressive.
Blue jackets and jackets are allowed in both offices and educational institutions. And in collaboration with light trousers or a miniskirt, they are suitable for walking.
Green jackets are less popular. But they are also suitable for work, and if worn with a dress, with a short skirt, jeans, or on a date.
Jackets in watercolor shades are something Her Majesty Elizabeth II is fond of, and you can trust this lady’s taste.
Since the times of Coco Chanel, pink, yellow, and blue tweed jackets have been popular, worn with matching skirts and combined with dresses, jeans, and breeches.
Combination examples
- English jacket + top + pencil skirt + patent leather pumps;
- tweed jacket in men's style + sheath dress + heels;
- Spencer + matching shirt + contrasting color narrow trousers + heeled boots;
- long jacket + top or blouse + tight shorts worn with black tights + boots.
Tweed jackets are the “aristocrats” in the world of clothing, so they do not tolerate “competitors” with flashy colors and colorful prints. Solid colors and calm colors suit them.
Men's tweed jacket
The English cut features two vents at the back and slanted pockets. American jacket with one vent and wide armholes. Italian without slots, but always with shoulder pads. The French one is noticeably fitted and slightly cropped.
A tweed jacket can have one or two sides, the width of the lapels and the number of buttons can vary.
Colors and combinations
Gray men's jackets are perfect with trousers in dark gray, steel, blue and black denim.
Brown ones look organic with mustard, beige, and olive trousers.
Green - with khaki chinos and brown trousers.
Blue - with jeans, gray, white trousers.
Burgundy - with blue, gray, light brown.
According to experts, a style that includes tweed jackets can be called “smart casual.” Tweed is especially suitable for scientists, teachers, and the creative elite; Without taking away the solidity, it gives the male appearance a “pinch” of relaxedness.
Combination examples
- Tweed gray (brown, dark green) jacket + light shirt + straight jeans/corduroy pants a tone darker than the jacket + loafers/boots;
- jacket + plain cotton or flannel shirt + chinos + shoes/boots;
- jacket + vest or jersey jumper + jeans/corduroy trousers + boots;
- jacket + light shirt + vest + classic trousers/jeans.
If the occasion demands, a tweed jacket will also go well with an impressive tie.
Remember that tweed jackets are seasonal clothing; in the summer they are worn only when it is very chilly and cloudy.
Who is it suitable for?
But don’t rush to run to the store for a new model of a short coat - jacket, because it does not suit every young lady. There are several features to consider when choosing such a coat:
- Young ladies with a full bust should avoid this model, but those with large hips are recommended to choose it.
- A coat-jacket with a double-breasted collar noticeably elongates the silhouette and makes the figure slimmer, so if your height is beyond 180, you need to treat this model with care.
- This model looks best on small and slender young ladies, but girls of average height and slightly overweight can also choose this style.
- Tall girls are better off choosing long coats with a fitted silhouette.
Remember that oversized models are only suitable for girls with a lack of weight and, if you do not suffer from this problem, you can choose other models, of which there are a huge number now.
Tweed coats
The following models are sewn from tweed:
- balmakaan (m),
- peacoat (m/f),
- duffle coat (m/f),
- Cape (w),
- carpet coat (m/f),
- cocoon (f),
- crombie (m),
- pardesyu (m),
- polo (m),
- poncho (w),
- Redington (m/f),
- trench coat (m/f),
- chesterfield (m/f),
- overcoat (m/f).
The “eternal” trend includes men’s and women’s tweed coats of a conservative English cut – Chesterfield, Redington, Crombie. Men's and women's duffle coats, trench coats and overcoats are not losing ground.
Some of the names in the list above may not be familiar to you. We recommend that you read:
All types of clothing: list with names and photos →
Women's fashion this season offers cozy tweed capes and ponchos, overcoats, floor-length tweed coats and coats with fur-trimmed hoods.
Men's fashion recommends English double-breasted coats, overcoats, polo coats... And, imagine, capes replacing outerwear - however, this trend has not yet reached the masses.
What to wear with a tweed coat?
The choice of underwear and shoes is determined by the volume, length and color of the tweed coat.
Advice for women
Short knitted or flannel dresses, long sleeves, skinny jeans or breeches in combination with a tweed peacoat, duffle coat or poncho form a successful casual look.
If you combine a straight coat of medium length and a silk, chiffon dress/skirt, you get the especially sought-after “urban chic”. Capes and shrugs work well in an ensemble with trousers, straight or tapered skirts and over the knee boots.
Tweed cocoons are worn with tight-fitting trousers, leggings, knitted sweaters, shirts, and untucked sweatshirts. Shoes - from Chelsea boots and boots to stilettos.
Advice for men
Laconic models - crombie, polo, redington, pardesu, covercoat and chesterfield - are consistent with business suits, formal trousers and jeans. Traditionally, they are paired with desert boots, Jodhpur boots, chakka or Chelsea boots, and jackboots: the shoe model is determined by the length of the coat and the format of the event.
For men's peacoats, which are more like jackets, jeans and corduroy trousers are appropriate, creating a relaxed semi-sporty look. How to wear a men's greatcoat can be learned from Prince Charles, who wears this coat over a suit and tie. However, jumpers, blue jeans, and long scarves on top are also suitable under an overcoat.
There are no axioms about what shoes to combine a tweed coat with. The most interesting, colorful outfits are obtained as a result of the experiment. Many coats can be paired with boots in a contrasting color, combat boots, and even sneakers.
What is the name of
The shortened model of a fitted coat got its name because of its similarity with a jacket. The same length, fit and cut, fasteners in the same place as a classic suit element, even the absence of a belt allows this coat to be confused with a jacket.
Modern coat models in a slightly modified form have acquired other names. The boyfriend coat is distinguished by a double-breasted collar, forming a V-shaped neckline, and the riding coat, better known as a frock coat, has two small collars and a through fastener. In general, any model of a cropped coat resembles a jacket to one degree or another, but there are also several exceptional features.
How to choose tweed clothes?
Excellent tweed fabrics are still made in England. Top quality guaranteed - Harris Tweed stamped on the label. This means that in front of you is an authentic Harris, woven on handlooms from the wool of Scottish sheep. True, this tweed is too dense, rough and is mainly used for coats.
Be sure to examine the lining of your clothing . It should not be made of polyester, but of viscose, silk, a mixture of natural fabric and acetate. High-quality tweed is accompanied by buttons made from natural materials - horn or leather.
The seams of the product must be precise so that the ornament is not distorted, and the stitching must be neat, without bristling threads.
After inspection, start trying on: meticulously evaluate the fit in the shoulders, length and volume, comfort of the armholes, because tweed clothes are bought for a long time.
