They say that people pay attention to their hands first. The color of nail polish, rings, watches, the shape of nails - you immediately get a general impression of a person. No matter how expensive the jewelry, a bad manicure will ruin everything, but well-groomed hands will elevate you in the eyes of your interlocutor. Therefore, everyone who takes care of themselves takes care of their nails. If going to beauty salons is expensive or you don’t have enough time, you can learn how to do a hardware manicure at home.
Hardware manicure is a manicure technique in which the master processes the cuticle and nail plate using a milling machine and cutter attachments. The device can perform all stages - from removing the old coating to polishing the cuticle.
How is it different from other types of manicure?
From the classic (cut) in that all manipulations take place on dry skin, and not on wet, steamed skin. Therefore, you will not need baths, towels or special salt - you will save time and eliminate the risk of infection through these means.
From the combined fact that the master works only with the device. The cutting of the keratinized layer of the cuticle is carried out with a cutter, and not with scissors or nippers. It's faster and safer.
It is for its non-traumatic nature and safety that masters and clients fell in love with hardware manicure. But these are not all its advantages. Let's tell you more about them.
Toolbox processing
Tools and attachments should be cleaned after each use. The cutters are washed with water, and at the same time, particles of skin are removed from them using a brass brush.
Cleaning in an ultrasonic sterilizer is also a good option. It works on the principle of purification by vibration, which causes the liquid to vibrate. Microbubbles formed as a result of such exposure explode, clearing dirt from hard-to-reach places on the instrument.
Instruments are treated with antiseptic solutions or sterilized in special cabinets, for example, in a dry heater.
All instruments made of solid materials are placed in it, after which they are heat treated in an environment with a temperature of 180 ᵒC for 30 minutes, then removed and placed in sterile containers with a sealed lid.
Pros and cons of hardware manicure
Advantages
- Safety. Low risk of injuring the client, especially if he has thin skin and close capillaries, and low risk of infecting the client, since the procedure is sterile.
- Long lasting effect. Thanks to the even cut made by the cutter, “trash” and burrs do not appear on the cuticle. When performing a deep manicure, the cuticle grows more slowly, hands look well-groomed and beautiful longer, so correction can be done after 3 - 4 weeks.
- Convenience. For work you will only need cutters. There is no need to wrap your nails in foil to remove gel polish, or soak your hands in a bath to push back the cuticles and clean off the pterygium.
- Painless. Despite the fact that many clients are frightened by the sound of the device and the ultra-fast revolutions, such a manicure does not cause pain if the technician works correctly.
- Economical. Investments in the purchase of a machine and cutters will pay off in the first month of work if you plan to become a master. You will not need to spend money on regular sharpening of scissors/tweezers, cuticle softener (remover) and other products.
Flaws
In fact, there are few of them if the master has enough experience, knowledge and qualifications. It will be difficult for a beginner at first; he can damage the nail plate and injure himself or the client. The main disadvantages of this technique:
- the difficulty of performing a manicure for a novice master. Therefore, in many schools, they first teach classical and combined manicure, and only then - hardware;
- unpleasant or painful sensations if the procedure is performed by a beginner;
- not recommended for thin nails that are “rags” or neglected rough nails.
Preparing for a manicure
So, the device and attachments have been purchased, all that remains is to complete all the necessary preparations.
- Nails should be well dried. If the surface is damp, this will lead to heating and unpleasant sensations during processing. The quality of processing itself will deteriorate significantly.
- In customizable devices, you should set the speed to 10,000. If you exceed this threshold, you can damage your nail out of habit. If you have no experience with the degree of pressure during processing, it is better to work at low speeds.
- Before starting the procedure, the cuticle must be softened with a special solution.
- It is necessary to process cutters shortly before starting work.
- Before the procedure, you should completely remove the old gel polish and degrease the nail surface.
- Strong pressure or pressure with the clipper on the surface of the nail is not allowed. It is better to get silicone attachments and use them the first time.
- Before starting the procedure, make sure you have a disinfectant on hand.
- It is necessary to place all the attachments in a convenient place and think in advance about how the workspace will be cleaned and the device cleaned after the procedure is completed.
For which clients is a hardware manicure suitable?
- For those with rough, fast-growing cuticles.
- For those who are often injured by masters using scissors/tweezers during a classic manicure.
- For those whose nail plate has a dull color.
- For clients who have problematic nails: brittle, flaky, uneven.
- For everyone who values speed and high quality in manicure.
Note!
If the nails are affected by fungus, there are cuts, wounds or inflammations, then the client cannot undergo a hardware manicure.
What a beginner needs for a hardware manicure: a list of everything
Manicure machine
For home use, a medium power device up to 45 W is suitable. For example, Nail Drill ZS-601. It has a smooth speed control from 0 to 35,000 rpm, which is carried out using a knob on the front panel of the device or a foot pedal. The direction of rotation of the nozzles is selected using a switch. There is a removable plastic holder for the router handle and holes for the cutters. Suitable for all stages of hardware manicure. Does not vibrate, works quietly. But it does not withstand long daily loads, so you should not use it for work - only for home.
Nail Drill ZS-601 35000 rpm/45 W
For professional use, you should take a closer look at a more powerful model – up to 65 W. The hit of all masters is Strong devices. For example, Strong 210/107 II has a rotation speed of up to 35,000 rpm. Equipped with a cooling system and ready to work continuously for 12 hours. If it overheats, it will automatically turn off - this guarantees a long service life. Lightweight and compact, so it won't take up much space on your desktop. The case has a convenient pen stand. Thanks to the collet mechanism, you can change attachments in a matter of seconds. During operation, neither the handle nor the device makes loud noises, vibrations or trembling due to four bearings.
Manicure and pedicure device Strong 210/107 II without pedal with bag
Cutters for hardware manicure
Mills are attachments on the device that are used to perform manicures. Depending on the material, they are divided into several types.
Ceramic ones are suitable for preparing the nail plate, treating difficult areas of skin and nails, removing dead skin, calluses, removing gel polish or artificial acrylic nails, as well as for grinding down thick nails. They are expensive, so they are usually not included with the device for home use.
Metal (carbide or alloy steel) are used to treat nails and cuticles. They can, for example, clean off the pterygium and open the pocket. They differ from others in that they do not file off the skin or nail, but cut them off, forming fine dust. Therefore, the master should always protect the respiratory system with a mask. Metal attachments polish the skin well, can file off the hard coating on the nails and remove length. Typically, masters use such cutters for most stages of manicure.
Diamond cutters are needed to process sensitive skin and thin nail plates. Using them, the master can level the nail, smooth out unevenness, polish the ridges and prepare the nail for coating. A large nozzle will remove the callus.
Combined (silicon carbide) are suitable for home use. You've probably heard about “sand caps” - these are disposable attachments for bullet cutters. Combination cutters cannot be sterilized.
For each stage of manicure, you need to select cutters according to the shape depending on the purpose.
- Cone – for removal of pterygium and initial treatment of the lateral sinuses.
- Ball - for cutting the cuticle.
- Bullet – for polishing ridges and proximal folds.
- Corn - for removing old gel polish coating.
- Flame - to open the pocket and remove the pterygium.
- Needle – for treating the lateral sinuses.
Pusher or orange sticks
These tools are needed to push back the cuticle - this helps open the pocket during manicure to create a coating “under the cuticle”. The pusher has two sides: a spatula for pushing back the cuticle and a hatchet for removing the pterygium.
The good thing about an orange stick is that it has a more delicate effect on the skin, and after a manicure it can be disposed of, which ensures sterility. The pusher is more effective, but must be processed and sterilized after each client.
Note! To disinfect and sterilize instruments you will need an ultrasonic cleaner and a dry heater.
Ultrasonic bath CD-7810(A) 50 Watt CODYSON 750 ml
Dry-heat cabinet GP-10 MO
Files for hardware manicure
You will need files of different shapes and abrasiveness. To choose them, you first need to pay attention to the grit. This is the number of abrasive grains per 1 square meter. cm. The higher the value, the more sputtering grains per 1 square meter. cm and, accordingly, the softer the file.
Interesting! Modern manufacturers produce metal bases on which disposable replaceable files are glued - this is convenient, sterile and safe. But if you choose nail files for home use, it is better to buy classic reusable files.
Manicure hood (vacuum cleaner)
An extractor hood (vacuum cleaner) is a special device that sucks up fine dust that is harmful to the respiratory system. Can be built-in, portable and floor-mounted.
- Built-in hoods are mounted into a manicure table and covered with a grill for safety. This is convenient because... At the beginning of a hardware manicure, the master only needs to press the power button.
- Portable ones are suitable for home use and for those craftsmen who value mobility and simplicity. This hood is easy to replace if it breaks and can be placed on the table in a way that is convenient for you.
- Floor vacuum cleaners are stationary structures of impressive size. They are installed in showrooms and are valued for their high power and efficiency. The ventilation unit is located inside the device, and the hose is supplied to the technician’s workplace. Nowadays you rarely see such a vacuum cleaner, because... it is bulky, takes up a lot of space and does not look aesthetically pleasing.
Note! The hood bag must be emptied and cleaned regularly. For convenience, there are replaceable disposable bags.
Other tools
Buff is a special file in the shape of a block. Used for polishing the nail plate to remove irregularities, pterygium residues and clean the surface before applying gel polish.
A dust removal brush will come in handy when performing a hardware manicure to clean the nail plate.
An antiseptic (disinfectant) must be applied before any manicure to clean and disinfect the skin of your hands and nails. During the manicure itself, you will also need it for degreasing, disinfection and dehydration.
Oil or cream will help consolidate the results of a hardware manicure, moisturize and soothe the skin. You can view the manicure cream here and buy cuticle oil using this link.
Hand and nail cream with keratin, tea tree oil and silver Green Professional Domix 500 ml
Cuticle oil Peach IRISK 15 ml
The basic set for hardware manicure has been assembled, now you can begin the process itself.
Step-by-step instructions for hardware manicure
Step one. Preparing the skin of the hands.
Treat your hands with antiseptic.
Step two. Shape sawdust.
Using a file, give your nails the desired shape: almond, square, oval or squaw. Maintain symmetry and check the accuracy of the sawdust. To do this, compare the nails on both hands in length and shape.
Step three. Preparing the nail plate.
At this stage we will need a pusher. Use a spatula to push back the cuticles on all nails, and then use a hatchet to clean off the pterygium.
Important!
Work carefully, do not make sudden movements and do not put pressure on the cuticle and nail. The pusher should lie almost parallel to the nail plate.
Step four. Hardware manicure.
Prepare in advance all the necessary cutters for manicure; they can be placed in special holes on the front panel of the device.
Remove the pterygium and lift the cuticle using a cone cutter. First, pass the device in one direction, then press the reverse button and process the nails in the opposite direction. The optimal number of revolutions at this stage is from 15,000 to 17,000 rpm.
Replace the cutter with another needle-shaped one. Treat the lateral sinuses, cuticle and lateral ridges.
Attention! To avoid making a cut, all cutters must be placed parallel to the nail plate.
Now replace the cutter with a “ball”. Use it to cut the cuticle. Movements should only be on the skin, do not touch the nail, so as not to injure it. Smoothly repeat the shape of the hole with the cutter, do not be afraid to turn your finger over in a way that suits you. The cuticle should be cut off in one thin strip. Do not hold the cutter in one place for more than 3 - 5 seconds, otherwise you will leave a cut.
Replace the cutter with a bullet grinder. Treat the side ridges and cuticles. The rotation speed of the cutter at this stage should be no more than 7 thousand rpm.
Step five. The final stage.
Lightly buff the nail plate using a buff – a couple of strokes in one direction is enough. Brush off excess dust and treat your nails with a degreaser. This completes the hardware manicure. Afterwards, you can start covering your nails with varnish/gel polish or moisturize your hands with cream and lubricate the cuticles with oil. Read more about applying gel polish in the article “How to apply gel polish?”.
Secrets of specialists
Never neglect the advice of masters who have been successfully performing hardware manicures for their clients for a long time. The beauty industry does not stand still; new cosmetics are appearing that make work easier and the latest devices with improved functionality. The technology for processing marigolds is also being improved. For more successful work, follow these simple rules:
- If, in addition to manicures, you also do pedicures, use cutters with a higher abrasiveness;
- Select the size of the cutter in accordance with the size of the area you are going to process;
- It is better for a novice master to start with minimal speeds, gradually increasing them. Otherwise, you may injure the client;
- Interrupt work every 5-7 minutes to avoid overheating and damage to the device;
- Move the cutter from the center to the edge of the nail, do it smoothly, do not stay in one place for a long time;
- Do not take water procedures before a manicure session;
- When you start polishing the surface of the nail plate, do not put pressure on it, just lightly run over it with the softest cutter;
- When processing the cuticle and periungual areas, hold the cutter at an angle of 45 degrees; you need to polish the nail while holding the device parallel to it;
- Move your hand opposite to the movement of the cutter. Then you will get the best result.
Common hardware manicure mistakes
Work on damp skin. This is how the cutter catches and tears the cuticle. Do not steam your skin before the procedure!
Incorrect selection of technology. If your nails are in too bad a condition, then the device will not work for you. You will have to use a combined technique. If you try to treat the cuticle and nail plate with a device, you risk injuring the client.
Speed too high. For beginners in hardware manicure, it is better to work at medium speeds up to 15,000 rpm, so as not to make a cut and damage the skin.
Incorrectly selected cutter abrasiveness. Nozzles with a blue “belt” are suitable for rough cuticles, and with a red one – for thin and sensitive ones.
Hardware manicure at home is not as complicated as it seems! But only if you have been trained and have special knowledge. Otherwise, you risk damaging your nails and developing diseases.
Criteria for choosing a device for manicure at home
So, you have decided to purchase a router for home use. How to choose the right option?
Professional device for performing hardware manicure
- Don't go for professional devices. While you are just starting out, all you need to do is purchase a machine with a speed of 20,000 rpm and a power of 40 W. If you plan to do a pedicure, then you should pay attention to machines with a power of 40 - 60 W and a rotation speed of 30,000 revolutions.
- When purchasing a router, focus on the average price range. Expensive models are intended for professional use, or contain many unnecessary functions and attachments. Cheap models can quickly fail. And even more so, under no circumstances purchase manicure machines from Chinese websites. As a rule, they are all of low quality, they have poorly secured cutters, which are also poorly processed, such machines do not have switching modes - all this can cause harm to your nails.
- When choosing a machine, pay attention to the convenience of the tools, how the router fits in your hand, whether it is too heavy or, on the contrary, light for you. Based on your personal feelings.
- Don't chase too many cutters. As a rule, 5 attachments will be enough for you.
You will learn more about the main types of cutters for performing hardware manicure from the video training.
