Do you dream of incredible evening makeup, but don't know how to combine colors correctly? HBS shares a life hack that will help you achieve perfect harmony and beauty.
To create a bright evening makeup, you need to cope with an important task - choosing the right color scheme. Our face is a canvas, a future work of art, so we should ensure harmony and the right combinations, focusing attention on what is necessary and distracting from shortcomings. And a wonderful invention will help us with this - the color wheel.
Methods of use
There are different ways of combining, it all depends on what color scheme the makeup is planned in. However, it doesn’t hurt to trust proven color rules.
Deuce
Take two colors that are located opposite each other in the circle. Interacting, they complement and enhance the brightness of the new shade. This technique does not apply exclusively to the choice of shadows; eye and lip colors also matter. For example, blue-eyed girls can try a palette with orange pigment. This will increase the contrast and highlight the eyes.
Triad
This is a classic combination of three colors that are located at the same distance from each other on the circle. When connected, a triangle is formed in the diagram. This choice is a bold decision, since the colors seem very different at first glance. But, having tried this method in practice, you will notice that they really look good together.
Analogy
A combination of two or three adjacent shades. This choice will allow you to create a more monochrome make-up. For everyday makeup, you can choose several muted shades of the same color, which will not look flashy, but will still add zest to any classic look.
Square
A combination of four equally spaced colors: one main and three additional. You cannot use each of them in the same quantity; there must be a dominant one, which will take most of the emphasis, while the rest are auxiliary, complementary.
Features of using the palette in makeup
When choosing cosmetics, the theory suggests remembering key concepts:
- the tone always matches the true color;
- intensity determines how light or dark a color is, its basis is the amount of light illuminating the object;
- Saturation controls the level of color frequency.
The color wheel is characterized by monochrome colors with one leading color and polychrome colors combined from different colors. To achieve white, you need to combine all the colors, but black will be achieved if they are completely absent.
Colorism when choosing the right makeup palette implies an individual approach for each woman. You should take into account the tone of the iris, skin tone, and hair.
It is also necessary to pay attention to contrast, taking into account the differences between the color of the curls and the skin of the face, the iris and the white of the eyes.
No less important is the tone of the lips and their brightness. When choosing a range, the colors of the wardrobe elements are taken into account.
The main principle of the color wheel is opposition. It is expressed in a clear comparison of two complementary tones that reinforce each other. To enhance the color of the shell, you should find the color that matches it and pay attention to the one that is opposite on the color wheel. This approach will also add expressiveness to the look.
For example, you can take dark brown eyes. It is difficult to determine the contrast in this case, since for black the opposite is white. To solve the problem, it is necessary to use not the contrasting principle, but the lighting principle. It is worth paying attention to the following combinations that the color wheel offers:
- Ivory;
- pastel yellow gold;
- golden beige;
- mother of pearl with pink pollination.
For those with light blue eyes with a warm skin tone, you can enhance the richness of the blue by using shades of peach or coral. If your skin is cool-toned, you should choose beige-brown. The combination of colors from a related series will add softness and calmness to the image.
If you use only cool colors in your makeup, then, although it will create the effect of airiness and calm, it will at the same time look lifeless. Shadows with a shimmering effect applied to the inner corners of the eyes will help balance it out. Heavy and irritating makeup will work if the young lady has hazel-brown eyes and uses warm-colored shadows. In this case, it is necessary to dilute the makeup with cold shades of the color wheel. This could be a muted blue or green on the lower eyelid.
Areas of use
Turning to the circle, we recommend creating eye makeup using not only eye shadow, but also colored mascara, eyeliner, and glitter. In addition, the principle of combination also applies to other areas of the face, such as the lips. Using the techniques described, it is easy to determine how well the lipstick matches the chosen palette and blush color.
Combination of makeup with selected clothes
If a certain color scheme dominates in clothing, it is necessary to take into account that the shade of lipstick, blush and nail polish should be combined with it.
It is believed that the brighter the palette in clothes, the brighter the lipstick should be. This rule does not apply to women with fair skin and blond hair, who should choose a lipstick of a calmer shade.
If the clothes are dominated by black or white shades, the makeup can be either calm or bright - it all depends on the event you are going to.
Having chosen red clothes, the shades of makeup should be selected depending on whether the color of the suit is cold or warm. Red-violet outfits are in harmony with plum flowers, red-orange with yellow, brown, orange and their shades.
Soft brown tones in clothing go well with a variety of warm shades from light apricot to yellow-brown. Gray-brown shades harmonize with the cool mauve and plum palette.
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Shadows for green eyes
For the owners of these beautiful eyes, the most suitable shades are those whose color contains red - from soft pink to purple. Choose:
- black, silver-black, black-brown;
- brown, bronze, lilac tones;
- rich purples and their shades;
- gold and shades of gold.
If you really want to use green shadows, then you need to be extremely careful, as they can discolor the color of your eyes . It is best to use them in combination with other colors.
For example, apply green eyeshadow to the lower eyelid and purple eyeshadow to the upper eyelid. At the same time, do not forget that the shade of green shadows should not be more saturated than your eyes. It is best if the eyes and shadows are in the same tone.
Do not use blue and blue colors and their shades, as well as shadows with a silver tint. Be careful when choosing pink eyeshadow. Not every shade of pink will suit you.
But on the other hand, correctly selected tones will look flawless. However, in order to choose pink eyeshadow just for you, you will have to experiment.
Goethe's color wheel. Combination order
Fashion designers, designers, stylists and makeup artists - all people working with colors use Goethe's color wheel in their practice and are guided by the following rules:
Rule No. 1. Colors that lie opposite each other are best combined. they are also called complementary. For example, purple and yellow complement each other and enhance each other.
Rule No. 2. Colors located at the vertices of one of the triangles are harmonious. For example, blue, purple and green. This rule is also called “three-color harmony.”
Rule No. 3. The colors located at the vertices of the square are harmonious. For example, blue, purple, yellow and orange. This rule is also called “color complement”.
Rule #4: Colors that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel go well together. They are called analog. Usually one of them is taken as the basis, and the second acts as an addition to place accents.
Rule No. 5. Shades located at one vertex of the triangle can be combined in any quantity. Goethe's modern color wheel has 24 vertices. The color of each of them can be divided into dozens of shades and used in work or creativity.
Rule No. 6: Neutral colors can be combined with each other in any quantity. These include: white, brown, gray, black.
Neutralization color wheel. Theoretical basis
Photo: color wheel
The theory of hair color is primarily based on the study of the color wheel and the laws of subtractive color mixing. It is based on three primary colors - blue, yellow and red, which when mixed give additional colors.
So, mixing:
- red and yellow can be obtained orange;
- blue and red - purple;
- blue and yellow - green are all secondary colors.
Tertiary ones come out when secondary ones are combined with primary ones, etc.
Primary colors
When studying the basics of color in hair coloring, to simplify the work and understand it, use a color wheel with a limited number of colors. These are mainly primary, secondary and tertiary colors with 12 sectors of a wide variety of execution methods.
Creating Secondary Colors
So, if you mix 3 primary tones in equal quantities, the result is a neutral shade - gray or black.
Important! In coloristics, the neutral (achromatic) scale is taken to be a range of natural pigment of the strands. Therefore, all laws of color neutralization converge towards one goal - obtaining a neutral natural pigment.
Neutralization also occurs if you mix shades in equal quantities that are opposite each other on the color wheel.
Formation of tertiary shades
The neutralization technique is used to combat unwanted shades of strands. But, as practice shows, complementary colors are almost never used in equal quantities. They are added in small quantities - this way the brightness of the unwanted shade is muted without the formation of a gray tone.
Neutralization of color
On a note! In general, the instructions for achieving a good result are as simple as five cents and boil down to the following equation: the existing pigment of the strands (lightening background) + Artificial pigment = Final hair shade.
But in order to solve the problem correctly it is very important:
- Determine exactly how deep the tone is.
- Select the desired shade.
- Determine whether the strands require lightening.
- Find out whether neutralization is required and decide on a neutralizing tone.
Selection of shadow colors
The most common mistake is choosing eye shadow to match your eye color. This seemingly simplest way has long been criticized by the beauty community - the look becomes not expressive, but dull: the emphasis of the applied shadows mutes the color of the iris. The approach should be completely different - you need to work with additional, contrasting colors. For example, it is better to highlight blue and blue eyes with warm shades of copper.
Those with brown eyes are the luckiest, but it is better to highlight them with purple eyeshadow. Green eyes require brown colors. When selecting shadows, you can also apply the rule of “contrasting temperature”, that is, you need to choose a cool shade for a warm color, for example, for light green - menthol. Another important rule in eye makeup is taking into account the color of the skin when choosing the saturation of the shade of the shadows. Dark skin requires brightness, and on light skin, dark shades look unnatural.
Olive Skin Tones
Olive skin tones have the versatility to play it safe or go bold and vibrant with their naturally tanned complexion. It's not hard to enhance your olive skin tone, so don't be afraid to switch it up and try new shades.
Golden brown tones will give your natural skin tone, but rich jewel tones such as royal blue, emerald green, rich plum. Even a burnt orange will really make your complexion pop. Apply dry eyeshadow for a subtle glow, or apply it with a damp brush for a bold, intense shine.
( Also read: How to choose colors in makeup?).
Lipstick and lip gloss colors
Lipstick, like other types of decorative cosmetics, should be selected based on skin tone. The selection rules correspond to the recommendations for choosing blush: cold tones require the same “temperature” shades of lipstick, and warm ones are suitable for dark complexions. For snow whites, we can recommend pink and beige lipstick, or a delicate peach shade. For those with beige skin color, light caramel, apricot, and coral are suitable.
Olive skin goes well with warm shades of red, cherry and berry. When choosing lipstick, be sure to consider the makeup you have applied to your eyes. Ideally, the lipstick should be from the same group of colors from which the shadows are taken. Cool shadows are combined with “low temperature” lipsticks and vice versa. Only in this case will your image be harmonious and consistent in a stylish color scheme.
The right color combination
To create a fashionable two-tone makeup, we can recommend several win-win combinations.
- For gray and blue eyes, you can use combinations of silver and gray-beige, soft pink and warm brown, gold and bronze. Makeup in a warm combination of champagne color with a reddish tint will help to give the iris even more richness;
- For brown eyes, choose a palette with beige, gray, black, graphite, purple and dusty pink colors. For bright makeup, a combination of olive and dark gray eyeshadow is suitable;
- Green eyes can be emphasized by a competent combination of champagne with a warm shade of brown or chocolate, as well as creamy with rich brown-gray or ocher.
When applying shadows, a light shade is applied to the area of the inner part of the eye and under the eyebrow, and a dark shade is painted over the moving eyelid (starting from the middle). As you approach the outer corner of the eye, the shade should become more intense. Don't forget to pay attention to carefully shading the shadows so that they smoothly transition from one color to another.
